How to Diagnose a Leak
To diagnose the area that leaks, completely dry the tank, especially the exhaust fixture inside the plastic base under the tank. Place the tank where you can see underneath it easily. Fill your tank. Observe the unit as it fills. Check for water appearing around the exhaust fixture, the white elbow, the brass fittings, ball valve and the air cell stem area at the top of the tank.
If the leak is from the white elbow you must remove it. Learn how to fix a leaking elbow on the refurbish tank and/or hose arm page.
If the leak is from the brass fittings, unscrew them. Clean the brass threads carefully and apply Teflon tape to them. Screw them back into place.
If the leak is from the exhaust fixture that enters the bottom of the tank, try twisting it into the tank to tighten it. If your unit is older than January 2010 you will need to replace the water tank and the frame.
If the leak is from the air cell area it may be as simple as tightening the valve stem. Remove the metal cap and twist the stem valve tighter. We sell slotted metal caps for this purpose as well as new stem valves in our air cell valve kit. If the leak is coming from around the threaded air cell stem tighten the hexagonal bolt that attaches it to the tank. If this doesn't help you need to replace the water tank and frame.
If the leak is from the ball valve replace it by ordering it from our website or calling 800-948-2657. Always check the washer in the female coupling at the end of the hose arm, as they deteriorate over time and must be replaced. A bad washer can cause leakage that confuses the operator as to exactly where the unit is actually leaking.